What kind of lizard is right for me, plus care?
Labels:
skin care 40 plus
horselover
Hi,
So I'm thinking about getting a lizard or two, but I'm not too sure which kind would be right for me. If anyone's got any advice on types based on what I can provide for them, any information is greatly appreciated.
-I have a bit of experience taking care of my cousin's bearded dragon a few times, and I'm willing to learn and will be sure to do ALL my research prior to bringing anything home, however I'd still prefer a lizard that's fairly simple to care for
-I've got room for a tank up to approximately 30 gallons, maybe 40
-I'd like a relatively small lizard that enjoys being handled on a regular basis
-Preferably a kind that is happy to live either on it's own or in pairs... not a large group
-Not one with a short lifespan (under say... 6 years is what I'd consider short) preferably one that will live a good long life.
I'm kind of leaning towards a green anole, but some people say they're shy and don't like being handled. If anyone has suggestions, information, etc that would be great. Please provide what kind of setting they need (tank size, general setup, diet, cage mate/solitary, etc) and if you can tell me kinds you've got experience with and why you have your preferences, that would be really great too!
Thanks guys.
Answer
Green anoles can be fast and difficult to handle.
I HIGHLY recommend either a crested gecko or leopard gecko...usually leopard gecko is best in my opinion.
Leopard gecko..
Needs 20 gallon long tank or larger. Heat mat (not heat lamp, as belly heat is more important) with thermostat (to keep it from getting too hot). Have the hot side at 90-95F (laser thermometer is best, as it will measure floor temp). No UVB is needed. If you wish to have a viewing light, get a 2.0 UVB or regular fluorescent light and have it on 8-10 hours during the day. Solid substrate such as tile, paper towel, linoleum, slate. Loose substrates can cause impaction. Reptile carpet is often recommended, but I have known of leopard geckos to have developed sores on their feet/belly. It can also be difficult to disinfect/clean properly. 3 hides (hot, humid, cool)...I recommend making a humid hide out of a gladware container (or similar). Cut a hole at the lid..not the side..to prevent substrate from falling out. Sphagnum moss, bed-a-beast, ecoearth, cocofiber, or simply paper towel can be used in the moist hide...keep the substrate moist. 3 bowls (water, mealworms with carrot/potato to keep them gutloaded, calcium without vitamin d3). 2-3 supplements (depending on what kind you use)...calcium with and without vitamin d3 and multivitamin. I personally use Miner-All Indoor for the calcium with vitamin d3 and multivitamin combined. Dust food with calcium with vitamin d3 every other feeding. I always provide mealworms in a dish for free access and gutloaded (where you provide food to the insects before feeding to the reptile) crickets/dubia roaches every night (for babies/juvies) and every other night for adults. Do not house 2 males together or 2 unsexed juvies/babies together or 1 male and 1 female together. Most of the time, it's best to have just one per cage, as they can transfer disease/parasites or bully one another. Lifespan? 15 years on average, though I have known of a few to get into their 30s, supposedly. These guys can actually enjoy being handled. I have 3 out of 6 that willingly climb out of their cage onto my hand. As babies/juveniles they can be a bit fiesty and might bite, but many times it doesn't even draw blood. They can tame out quite easily through regular handling. When buying (not from a pet store...breeder or reptile show is best), look for one that has a thick tail (though with juveniles/babies, they usually won't be too thick, but it shouldn't be skin and bones). Look for clear eyes/nose/no stuck shed.
Crested geckos....
Adult needs 15 gallon tall tank or larger. With some juvies/babies under 10 grams, it's best to keep them in a large kritter keeper to help them find food easier. They don't need heat unless it gets below 65F (and in that case, add a heat lamp with a low wattage bulb..make sure it's not within reach). Do not allow their cage to get over 83F, as they will get stressed. They don't need UVB. They need plenty of vines/plants (live or fake) along with plenty of climbing branches. I've never seen any use hides at the bottom of the tank, but you can provide it if you wish. They need a food dish and shallow water bowl. Some people claim that they will lap up water from misting, but I have seen mine actually drink from the bowl...even right after I had misted the cage. Mist 1-2 times daily with a dry off period in between. Feed Repashy brand crested gecko diet (available online usually...I hardly ever see it in stores. SOMETIMES Petco will carry an older version of it, also labeled as T-Rex brand at times) Do NOT feed baby food. Do NOT feed mealworms (some have reported impaction due to the hard exoskeleton). You don't need to feed insects in general, but if you wish to, you can feed gutloaded/calcium with vit. d3 dusted crickets or dubia roaches once a week at the most. Feed Repashy 3-5 times per week. Add 2 parts water per 1 part Repashy (I usually do 1/4tsp Repashy with 1/2tsp water). As for substrate...I find paper towel to be best since it holds moisture and can't be ingested. If you're not going to feed insects, then EcoEarth/Bed-a-Beast is fine to use for a more natural look. Average lifespan is 15 years, though it's unsure of how long they could last, as they were only rediscovered in 1994...they were thought to be extinct before then. These guys do best alone, as well. As for handling, they can be very jumpy but can tame down as adults.
Green anoles can be fast and difficult to handle.
I HIGHLY recommend either a crested gecko or leopard gecko...usually leopard gecko is best in my opinion.
Leopard gecko..
Needs 20 gallon long tank or larger. Heat mat (not heat lamp, as belly heat is more important) with thermostat (to keep it from getting too hot). Have the hot side at 90-95F (laser thermometer is best, as it will measure floor temp). No UVB is needed. If you wish to have a viewing light, get a 2.0 UVB or regular fluorescent light and have it on 8-10 hours during the day. Solid substrate such as tile, paper towel, linoleum, slate. Loose substrates can cause impaction. Reptile carpet is often recommended, but I have known of leopard geckos to have developed sores on their feet/belly. It can also be difficult to disinfect/clean properly. 3 hides (hot, humid, cool)...I recommend making a humid hide out of a gladware container (or similar). Cut a hole at the lid..not the side..to prevent substrate from falling out. Sphagnum moss, bed-a-beast, ecoearth, cocofiber, or simply paper towel can be used in the moist hide...keep the substrate moist. 3 bowls (water, mealworms with carrot/potato to keep them gutloaded, calcium without vitamin d3). 2-3 supplements (depending on what kind you use)...calcium with and without vitamin d3 and multivitamin. I personally use Miner-All Indoor for the calcium with vitamin d3 and multivitamin combined. Dust food with calcium with vitamin d3 every other feeding. I always provide mealworms in a dish for free access and gutloaded (where you provide food to the insects before feeding to the reptile) crickets/dubia roaches every night (for babies/juvies) and every other night for adults. Do not house 2 males together or 2 unsexed juvies/babies together or 1 male and 1 female together. Most of the time, it's best to have just one per cage, as they can transfer disease/parasites or bully one another. Lifespan? 15 years on average, though I have known of a few to get into their 30s, supposedly. These guys can actually enjoy being handled. I have 3 out of 6 that willingly climb out of their cage onto my hand. As babies/juveniles they can be a bit fiesty and might bite, but many times it doesn't even draw blood. They can tame out quite easily through regular handling. When buying (not from a pet store...breeder or reptile show is best), look for one that has a thick tail (though with juveniles/babies, they usually won't be too thick, but it shouldn't be skin and bones). Look for clear eyes/nose/no stuck shed.
Crested geckos....
Adult needs 15 gallon tall tank or larger. With some juvies/babies under 10 grams, it's best to keep them in a large kritter keeper to help them find food easier. They don't need heat unless it gets below 65F (and in that case, add a heat lamp with a low wattage bulb..make sure it's not within reach). Do not allow their cage to get over 83F, as they will get stressed. They don't need UVB. They need plenty of vines/plants (live or fake) along with plenty of climbing branches. I've never seen any use hides at the bottom of the tank, but you can provide it if you wish. They need a food dish and shallow water bowl. Some people claim that they will lap up water from misting, but I have seen mine actually drink from the bowl...even right after I had misted the cage. Mist 1-2 times daily with a dry off period in between. Feed Repashy brand crested gecko diet (available online usually...I hardly ever see it in stores. SOMETIMES Petco will carry an older version of it, also labeled as T-Rex brand at times) Do NOT feed baby food. Do NOT feed mealworms (some have reported impaction due to the hard exoskeleton). You don't need to feed insects in general, but if you wish to, you can feed gutloaded/calcium with vit. d3 dusted crickets or dubia roaches once a week at the most. Feed Repashy 3-5 times per week. Add 2 parts water per 1 part Repashy (I usually do 1/4tsp Repashy with 1/2tsp water). As for substrate...I find paper towel to be best since it holds moisture and can't be ingested. If you're not going to feed insects, then EcoEarth/Bed-a-Beast is fine to use for a more natural look. Average lifespan is 15 years, though it's unsure of how long they could last, as they were only rediscovered in 1994...they were thought to be extinct before then. These guys do best alone, as well. As for handling, they can be very jumpy but can tame down as adults.
Estee Lauder Day Wear Plus help!?
dream gurl
I just turned 18 and I was wondering if using Estee Lauder Day Wear Plus (Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF15) too early to start at my age or not?
PRODUCT DETAILS
This protective moisturizer actively shields skin to help prevent lines before they appearâso your skin looks smoother and healthier, longer.
Helps protect skin from the multiple assaults of the environment:
HAS ANYONE OUT THERE TRIED IT? PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU!
Answer
I used to be a big fan of Estee Lauder once upon a time but now I wouldn't recommend it to anyone - I'm currently having resurfacing treatment for scarring on my face due to huge problems their foundations caused.
You're never too young to look after your skin, you have to live in it for the rest of your life so take care of it. Look out for a light SPF lotion, I believe Clarins do one in an SPF 40. They also do sun creams for the face in lower SPF's and their products are full of plant extracts and minerals which can only be good (I know many people who love Clarins). For daily wear it's best to find a lotion with a light texture that will absorb easily rather than a heavy cream.
I'm 24, and at 17/18 I was given all the wrong advice about my skin and how to look after it and what products to use etc and I'm now taking drastic action to fix it. The best advice I can give you is to find a gentle cleanser that will balance your skin rather than strip it of oils, and wear a daily SPF to protect your skin from environmental damage. If you have to wear makeup, minerals are the way to go as there are far fewer chemicals (just smell a regular foundation and then smell a mineral foundation!). Your skin will thank you for it.
That was probably far more information than you wanted lol, but I hope it helps :-)
I used to be a big fan of Estee Lauder once upon a time but now I wouldn't recommend it to anyone - I'm currently having resurfacing treatment for scarring on my face due to huge problems their foundations caused.
You're never too young to look after your skin, you have to live in it for the rest of your life so take care of it. Look out for a light SPF lotion, I believe Clarins do one in an SPF 40. They also do sun creams for the face in lower SPF's and their products are full of plant extracts and minerals which can only be good (I know many people who love Clarins). For daily wear it's best to find a lotion with a light texture that will absorb easily rather than a heavy cream.
I'm 24, and at 17/18 I was given all the wrong advice about my skin and how to look after it and what products to use etc and I'm now taking drastic action to fix it. The best advice I can give you is to find a gentle cleanser that will balance your skin rather than strip it of oils, and wear a daily SPF to protect your skin from environmental damage. If you have to wear makeup, minerals are the way to go as there are far fewer chemicals (just smell a regular foundation and then smell a mineral foundation!). Your skin will thank you for it.
That was probably far more information than you wanted lol, but I hope it helps :-)
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
Post a Comment