How to set up a narrow tank for bearded dragon?
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skin care for 60 and older
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Maddy
So i have a 60 gallon with a happy year old bearded dragon. He has a little house to hide in and a stack of long slate like bricks for his basking spot and his food and large water dish. It is a fish tank, so it is really narrow, only 13 inches wide. Its 4ft long and 19 1/2 inches high. I dont like the set up i have now and have a really hard time trying to decorate and change it because nothing fits because it so narrow. If you have a cage set ups for narrow tanks or some pics that would be amazing. Happy new year!
Answer
Hi Maddy,
I have wooden & glass vivs. They both retain heat well. My glass viv stays at 102-104F. My wooden viv stays @ 102F. I use a digital thermometer to check the heat & cool temps. Put the temp probe exactly where your Dragon tends to bask the most, & at the highest point. Leave it there for at least 45 minutes, to get an accurate reading. I bought mine from Wal-Mart, in the hardware section. It is called Accurite, & costs @ 15.00. It works great.
I have had Plexiglass, glass, & wooden viv's. My Beardies have never had chest infections or skin conditions. Beardies must have white light. I use a Repti-Sun 10.0 tube lite, and 2 household bulbs in the same fixture. Each of my vivs are set up the same way. I do not use heat mats. This light set-up has worked successfully for me, for years. If your house, or your BD's viv, does not drop below 65F, they will be fine. However, IF they do, a CHE is needed. Che's (Ceramic Heat Emitters) emits only heat, no light. You can buy a 100w CHE if you need to. A specific fixture is needed for a CHE. It is called a "Wire Fixture". Check out www.drsfosterandsmith.com for a good price on CHE's & wire fixtures.
I agree with Varanama about not limiting feeders to just 1 insect type, & about the Roaches. I use Dubia & Discoid Roaches. They offer more protein, and are safer than crickets. Both do not climb, and cannot escape. All other Roaches can climb (plastic & glass), & will escape. Especially, Lobster roaches, & Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches.
Waxworms are loaded with nothing but fat. Beardies have been known to stop eating other feeders, wanting only waxworms. They are highly addictive to BD's. Their nick-name is Dragon Crack/Dragon Candy, because of the fat content. They are so tasty, BD's have been known, in SOME cases, to starve themselves rather than eat other feeders. I've never fed my Dragons any Waxworms. As long as your Dragon has a suitable diet, i.e. greens, veggies, live insects, he/she will be fine.
Please do Not confuse ANY Mealworms with Superworms. They are NOT the same. Mealworms are NOT recommended for Bearded Dragons. They are KNOWN to cause impaction. Impaction can lead to a sick Dragon needing Vet care and meds, or to a dead Dragon. I do not use them.
Earthworms are not recommended for Bearded Dragons. To learn more about this topic, check out www.beardeddragon.org
The only beetles that I feed to my Dragons are Darkling Beetles. This is what Super Worms will turn into. Check out www.mulberryfarms.com to see what they look like.
Silkworms: Be aware, you need to wear latex gloves with Silkies. They are extremely sensitive to cross-contamination. I learned this first hand, the hard way. I didn't know about their sensitivity. I didn't know to wear latex gloves. When I picked up a Silkie, I accidentally touched other Silkies. One by one, they died. I lost the whole colony due to cross-contamination. They are sensitive to any surface, such as your hand.. Friends of mine who use Silkies as feeders, and who do so successfully, wear gloves. I wish I had known this back then.
I use the same supplements. The only difference is, I use the Calcium WITH D3.
Your Bearded Dragon will be an adult at 18 months of age. At this time, if your Dragon is healthy, giving Calcium 3 days, and Vitamins 2 days a week, is fine. It is possibible to over-do it with supplements. Your Dragon is still growing and developing. The supplements are especially needed.
When Bearded Dragons started to be popular pets, @ 20 years ago, there wasn't much information known about them. There was mis-information about diet, lighting, and environments, etc. There were not many people working specifically in the field of Bearded Dragons.
That has changed. Today, more is known about Bearded Dragons, than ever before. Back then, if your Dragon had AdenoVirus, your Dragon died from AdenoVirus. Today, due to new knowledge, Dragons can be saved from this disease.
I hope this helps you. Take care. Happy New Year, Every beardie! : - D
Emerald
Hi Maddy,
I have wooden & glass vivs. They both retain heat well. My glass viv stays at 102-104F. My wooden viv stays @ 102F. I use a digital thermometer to check the heat & cool temps. Put the temp probe exactly where your Dragon tends to bask the most, & at the highest point. Leave it there for at least 45 minutes, to get an accurate reading. I bought mine from Wal-Mart, in the hardware section. It is called Accurite, & costs @ 15.00. It works great.
I have had Plexiglass, glass, & wooden viv's. My Beardies have never had chest infections or skin conditions. Beardies must have white light. I use a Repti-Sun 10.0 tube lite, and 2 household bulbs in the same fixture. Each of my vivs are set up the same way. I do not use heat mats. This light set-up has worked successfully for me, for years. If your house, or your BD's viv, does not drop below 65F, they will be fine. However, IF they do, a CHE is needed. Che's (Ceramic Heat Emitters) emits only heat, no light. You can buy a 100w CHE if you need to. A specific fixture is needed for a CHE. It is called a "Wire Fixture". Check out www.drsfosterandsmith.com for a good price on CHE's & wire fixtures.
I agree with Varanama about not limiting feeders to just 1 insect type, & about the Roaches. I use Dubia & Discoid Roaches. They offer more protein, and are safer than crickets. Both do not climb, and cannot escape. All other Roaches can climb (plastic & glass), & will escape. Especially, Lobster roaches, & Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches.
Waxworms are loaded with nothing but fat. Beardies have been known to stop eating other feeders, wanting only waxworms. They are highly addictive to BD's. Their nick-name is Dragon Crack/Dragon Candy, because of the fat content. They are so tasty, BD's have been known, in SOME cases, to starve themselves rather than eat other feeders. I've never fed my Dragons any Waxworms. As long as your Dragon has a suitable diet, i.e. greens, veggies, live insects, he/she will be fine.
Please do Not confuse ANY Mealworms with Superworms. They are NOT the same. Mealworms are NOT recommended for Bearded Dragons. They are KNOWN to cause impaction. Impaction can lead to a sick Dragon needing Vet care and meds, or to a dead Dragon. I do not use them.
Earthworms are not recommended for Bearded Dragons. To learn more about this topic, check out www.beardeddragon.org
The only beetles that I feed to my Dragons are Darkling Beetles. This is what Super Worms will turn into. Check out www.mulberryfarms.com to see what they look like.
Silkworms: Be aware, you need to wear latex gloves with Silkies. They are extremely sensitive to cross-contamination. I learned this first hand, the hard way. I didn't know about their sensitivity. I didn't know to wear latex gloves. When I picked up a Silkie, I accidentally touched other Silkies. One by one, they died. I lost the whole colony due to cross-contamination. They are sensitive to any surface, such as your hand.. Friends of mine who use Silkies as feeders, and who do so successfully, wear gloves. I wish I had known this back then.
I use the same supplements. The only difference is, I use the Calcium WITH D3.
Your Bearded Dragon will be an adult at 18 months of age. At this time, if your Dragon is healthy, giving Calcium 3 days, and Vitamins 2 days a week, is fine. It is possibible to over-do it with supplements. Your Dragon is still growing and developing. The supplements are especially needed.
When Bearded Dragons started to be popular pets, @ 20 years ago, there wasn't much information known about them. There was mis-information about diet, lighting, and environments, etc. There were not many people working specifically in the field of Bearded Dragons.
That has changed. Today, more is known about Bearded Dragons, than ever before. Back then, if your Dragon had AdenoVirus, your Dragon died from AdenoVirus. Today, due to new knowledge, Dragons can be saved from this disease.
I hope this helps you. Take care. Happy New Year, Every beardie! : - D
Emerald
What products should I use for an oily forehead?
Allison
My forehead is very oily and I clean it every morning and night with some acne wash from Care One. It's not that great or anything and it hasn't been working so I was wondering what I should buy that would make my forehead less oily and have it stay that way? Nothing that's too expensive either :)
Thanks so much!
Answer
Blot it down with a tissue or a Kleenex. The main idea is to keep your forehead dry & oil-free.
The less products you use, the better for your skin. Use Bath wash like Suave Bath & Body Gel, use a washcloth. Treat your face like the rest of your body, take a shower everyday or wash your face everyday.
The secret is keeping your face clean and oil-free. I also don't use liquid on my face for anything, and very little moisturizer, not even a dime size. Since my face is not dry.
Acne medication could worsen what ever allergies you have, so instead of trying out one product after another, you're actually spreading it around. Example: ProActiv contains a known carcinogen, at a percentage known to promote skin cancer.
Smoking has been shown to make acne worse since it dimities the delivery of oxygen to the skin and robs it of nutrients, thereby inhibiting cars from healing. Not enough reason to quit? Smoke depletes moisture, making skin lose its luster and look wrinkly.
The beauty industry is a billion dollar business, they know acne is everyone's problem, but instead of saying soap is drying for you, they have to invent an acne product that can worsen the skin as MANY TEENAGERS have experienced during hormonal change, but as you get older those are completely a waste of time & money!
Good skin also comes from your good genes. Increase your fresh fruits & vegetables 3-5 servings per day.
Source(s)
I get one tiny zit a month or none. I have very clear, soft & silky complexion and I'm 60 years old, same as when I was in HS.
Blot it down with a tissue or a Kleenex. The main idea is to keep your forehead dry & oil-free.
The less products you use, the better for your skin. Use Bath wash like Suave Bath & Body Gel, use a washcloth. Treat your face like the rest of your body, take a shower everyday or wash your face everyday.
The secret is keeping your face clean and oil-free. I also don't use liquid on my face for anything, and very little moisturizer, not even a dime size. Since my face is not dry.
Acne medication could worsen what ever allergies you have, so instead of trying out one product after another, you're actually spreading it around. Example: ProActiv contains a known carcinogen, at a percentage known to promote skin cancer.
Smoking has been shown to make acne worse since it dimities the delivery of oxygen to the skin and robs it of nutrients, thereby inhibiting cars from healing. Not enough reason to quit? Smoke depletes moisture, making skin lose its luster and look wrinkly.
The beauty industry is a billion dollar business, they know acne is everyone's problem, but instead of saying soap is drying for you, they have to invent an acne product that can worsen the skin as MANY TEENAGERS have experienced during hormonal change, but as you get older those are completely a waste of time & money!
Good skin also comes from your good genes. Increase your fresh fruits & vegetables 3-5 servings per day.
Source(s)
I get one tiny zit a month or none. I have very clear, soft & silky complexion and I'm 60 years old, same as when I was in HS.
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